The best skin care active ingredients

A good cream should contain good active ingredients. But what are these good ingredients? The answer depends on your skin needs, but here are some popular actives in the cosmetics industry. 

Hyaluronic acid (HA) : it's a substance naturally found in the body (we have approximately 15 grams of HA). It is used in the cosmetics for :

- its moisturizing properties : HA would penetrates into the derm and boost the hydratation of the skin. It is the only ingredient capable to hold in moisture at the level of 1000 ml of water per gram of HA.

- its capacity of stimulating collagen synthesis and cell proliferation : thus it will also boost the elasticity of the skin

--> An elastic and moisturized skin looks youthful and plumpy. Unluckily, with age, the level of HA in the body will diminish causing loss of skin moisture and wrinkles. This is the reason why we should start using HA cream ( a concentration of 1% would be ideal) as soon as possible in order to prevent wrinkles.

Collagen (CO) : skin is made up mostly of collagen. Called also as the protein of youth, collagen fibers provide the sturdiness of the skin. It is responsible for the elasticity, the tonicity, the moisture of the skin and the renovation of the cells. After the age of 25, the production of CO will decrease leading to the thinning of the skin. The lack of CO is even more visible after the age of 45. The symptoms of collagen loss are : wrinkles, skin pigmentation disorders, dry skin and cellulite. Depends on your age, the concentration of CO in a cream could vary from 0.5 % to 5 %.

Peptides (P) : P are short chains of proteins. As I already said, Collagen is a protein (= long chains of amino acids strung together). When this chain is broken down, 3 to 5 amino acids are assembled to form the peptides. The creation of these peptides is a signal to the body : "we are loosing collagen"! Applying peptides directly to the skin is a way to trick it into thinking that it has lost collagen and needs to make more. Some peptides have the ability to block transmission of signals from nerves to  the facial muscles (= Botox effect). Other can deliver copper into the skin which is is an excellent healing agent. Overall, P are effective anti aging ingredients.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) : are derived from fruit and milk sugars. The most common are glycolic acid and lactic acid because they have a special ability to penetrate the skin. AHA work as an exfoliant. They remove slowly dead skins and accelerate the regrowth of new cells. Also, they stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, fight against wrinkles and hyperpigmentation,  clear acne, blackheads, whiteheads, improve skin moisture and the overall look and feel of the skin. AHA creams best work in a concentration of 8%. You can have real results after months of daily use. If you want  fast results it is also possible to have AHA, glycolic ou lactic peel.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) : also known in the cosmetics industry as salicylic acid, BHA are similar to AHA and have the same properties. The differences are that BHA are less irritating and they are oil soluble, it means they work best on oily skin because they can penetrate into the pore which contains sebum.

Vitamin C : is an antioxidant that slows the rate of free-radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules that damage skin's collagen and cause skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals and reverses DNA damage. It means it will help to reduce wrinkles,  fine lines, hyperpigmentation, skin dullness and even out the complexion.

Tretinoid or Retinoic Acid : is the first generation of retinoids. Basically, it is Retin A. This is the star ingredient. It unclog pores, clear acne, boost collagen production, reduce fine lines, speed cell turnover, even out discoloration and smooth the skin. I will soon publish a detail post on this active ingredient.

For the french speaking people here, I recommend to read the following article on the beauty regimen of some famous dermatologist. They all use at least 2-3 actives of the upper list. 

http://www.elle.fr/Beaute/Dossiers-beaute/Soins-Visage-Corps/Cremes-piqures-ce-que-les-medecins-choisissent-pour-elles-1488138

Sources :

http://organicbeautyandskin.com/what-is-my-skin-type/benefits-of-hyaluronic-acid.html

http://www.skinmedica.com/beautytalk/collagen-the-youth-protein

http://www.aroma-zone.com/aroma/fiche_actif_Collagene-vegetal.asp

http://thedermblog.com/2008/06/23/do-peptides-in-skin-care-products-work/

http://blog.hydropeptide.com/skin-care-ingredients/peptides.html

http://dermatology.about.com/cs/skincareproducts/a/aha.htm
http://dermatology.about.com/cs/skincareproducts/a/bha.htm

http://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/information/nutrition/vitamin-c-benefit-skin.htm
http://lpi.oregonstate.edu/infocenter/skin/vitaminC/
http://www.webmd.com/beauty/aging/retinoid-gel-and-cream-treatments
http://www.oprah.com/style/Retinoid-Skin-Creams-Why-You-Should-Use-a-Retinoid